Tom Sach's Hello Kitty bronze statue @ Casa Lever via Mille Fiori
I identify quite a bit with Sifton's writing. It's to the point, painting a picture of the expansive Manhattan dining savannah where hungry and bejeweled gazelles, antelopes and hyenas go to graze. It lacks the witticism that we are accustomed to ala Bruni, but give the man a chance.
What I did find a little shocking was in his review of Casa Lever (which garnered 2 stars), he completely missed (or chose to ignore) Tom Sachs' "Bronze Collection" exhibit of Hello Kitty and Miffy which is located right there at the plaza of Casa Lever.